“Is this heaven?” I asked my husband. “No,” he replied – it’s Civita!”
Civita di Bagnoregio
After pulling our luggage up the long footbridge into Civita di Bagnoregio, we walked into the familiar little piazza. A few steps away, we looked around the corner of Franco’s Civita B&B and peered into the open door, the shadowed room darkening our view.
Franco’s B&B
As we squinted, we were instantly welcomed by the burst of: “Come in, come in; you are here! Sit, sit please!” It was Franco, with a welcome like none other!
He graciously brought to our table a bottle of wine and a generous plate of fresh bruschetta, warm and tart with local goodness from on the vine tomatoes and olive oil so fresh we could have inhaled it. We sat and basked in the embrace of that simple moment, before climbing the stairs to our little room.
After settling in, we were met with a late afternoon rain.
Our first day quietly came to a close and ended with rain’s present:
a perfect rainbow, spanning the layers of tinted hues blanketing the ancient Calanchi Valley
.
We ventured out to once again explore this little place we have come to love.
Calanchi Valley
Amidst the narrow walkways, we caught glimpses of the final remnants of the day’s visitors making their way back down the long footbridge, to awaiting cars or buses. Only this time, we weren’t among them. We were fulfilling a wish to stay the night in this fairytale place, since our first visit years before.
Civita
And we were one of the only two couples staying that night, the only couple our last night. You could breathe in the silence.
Night in Civita
As night fell, we settled into the cozy comfort of the dining area of our little hotel, only to be greeted by an elegant meal, prepared by the lovely, Nina. She brought to us true Italian fare – pasta and steak as though we were dining among many, in some grandiose city.
Morning arrived greeting us with the remains of the rain – its glistening glow, on old stone pavement.
Civita di Bagnoregio
After a breakfast of warm croissants and rich Italian coffee, we headed down the long path to our car and a quick drive to Orvieto and the train, for a day’s adventure in Rome.
When we returned from the hurriedness of the ancient city, we entered the almost vacant little square of Civita, bathed in the air of the contrast of these two places. Having noticed no one was in our hotel, the sweet Fiorella appeared from one of the few shops and announced buoyantly, “I am here!”
And how so lovely was she. Again, another perfect Italian meal was served to us, with loving attention to every detail. We talked and laughed, sharing the simple joys of our families, the common bonds.
Franco’s B&B
And as my husband and I later climbed the stairs to our room, we worried for Fiorella, as she made the long trek down the footbridge, beneath the moonlight, on her way home to her family.
Our final morning arrived brightly, with birds singing into our windows. The beginning of another perfect day in Italy…
Fiorella once again greeted us with exuberance and croissants and coffee!
And then, we made our farewells, snapped a few photos and were off. As we began our journey down Civita’s long pathway, up came Fiorella behind us. Finished with her day as chef and hostess, she had transformed into the dazzling Italian beauty she was, hidden behind sunglasses and fitted in delicious black ankle boots. And then, giving me a friendly push for my luggage, she was off!
As she turned her car to drive off in the distance, Fiorella paused to toss a big wave, as did we.
Eetruscan entrance, Civita di Bagnoregio
Truly the “ultimate” of all Italy’s hill towns, this lovely, haunting place steals you from the comfort of what is “real”, to a brief interval of confounding silence…
To visit Civita di Bagnoregio from Orvieto, head south on Strada della Stazione a few miles and turn right on rt. 71. Then in true Italian fare, simply “follow the road signs” for Lubriano and Bagnoregio. Before driving through Bagnoregio, follow the signs to the left for Lubriano. Six hundred year old houses nestle along Via Roma, the nine foot wide cobbled lane that winds through this charming little village of less than one thousand.
Upon returning to the Babnoregio road, follow the yellow signs for Civita, driving through Bagnoregio. At the base of the footbridge to Civita is a small parking lot.
