On a previous trip, we had taken the night train from Venice to Budapest. It was as exotic as it sounds, being awakened at border crossings in the middle of the night, peering into the dim lit corridor and catching a glimpse of someone “important looking” with an automatic weapon shining in the dark. Although…
She stopped us as we were walking through her enchanting Civita. Her life had taken her to that place none of us want to be: stooped over, inflicted with the ravages of time. But, as Maria Giardino welcomed us into the private world of her lovely garden, you couldn’t resist the obvious: that as surely as…
You can imagine the excitement we felt when on a day we set aside for exploring, we stumbled across an old Etruscan cave, with its characteristic little square shelves — niches for storage and baking. We were hiking in a wooded park with patches of luminous wildflowers and a spectacular view of Sorano, one of the…
